Forums > Windsurfing General

Which Van Should I Buy?

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Created by berowne > 9 months ago, 23 Jun 2019
Stretchy
WA, 914 posts
12 Jul 2019 1:19PM
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Interesting, so if you install racks it would be best to be able to demonstrate they can be easily removed. That's how I setup my iMax and I have found it useful (I have the seats back in the van at the moment). In WA there are no annual inspections so it's probably an easier setup to run with over here

sailquik
VIC, 6068 posts
12 Jul 2019 5:22PM
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mr love said..
I don't recall advocating buying "heavier vehicles" I just want people to be aware that some of these older vans and grey imports they are mentioning would struggle to be even close to modern acceptable crash standards. By the way you gain points in ANCAP for pedestrian impact meaning that modern vehicles are safer for a 3rd party as well as the occupant.

Easy, just buy a white one!

sailquik
VIC, 6068 posts
12 Jul 2019 5:24PM
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Ian K said..
Statistics are indicating the taller SUV vehicles we are now buying are worse for pedestrians. Makes sense. A low car with a sloping bonnet and windscreen, like we used to buy, deflects pedestrians over the top - a glancing blow. Bullbars on SUVs make it even worse. A giant cheese grater sort of effect on pedestrians.

www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2018/05/14/611116451/fatal-pedestrian-crashes-increasingly-involve-suvs-study-finds
www.carscoops.com/2018/07/trucks-suvs-2-3-times-likely-kill-pedestrians-crashes/
www.newscientist.com/article/dn4462-suvs-double-pedestrians-risk-of-death/



If the "pedestrians' are Deer or 'Roo's, it is a different story though.

olskool
QLD, 2444 posts
12 Jul 2019 7:25PM
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Shifu , remove the seats. Store them in the garage until you need em. Make your racks to use as many of the original seat fixing points. You could possibly just bolt a plate to the floor n position brackets for racks wherever it suits on the plate. Easy as.
Oh, it is of course just a temporary setup.
Time to sell? Just bolt seats back in.

JonesySail
QLD, 1061 posts
13 Jul 2019 7:18PM
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I've done that on my imax , just need to get MOD cert ,

Imax1
QLD, 4527 posts
13 Jul 2019 7:44PM
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JonesySail said..
I've done that on my imax , just need to get MOD cert ,


U done what to me ?
Didnt feel a thing

olskool
QLD, 2444 posts
13 Jul 2019 9:10PM
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JonesySail said..
I've done that on my imax , just need to get MOD cert ,

No you dont Jonesy. Who is too know? Whether you use it regularly as sail gig or not. Only when you sell is it important to make it same as VIN plate states.

FormulaNova
WA, 14049 posts
15 Jul 2019 8:42PM
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Shifu said..
Would it be illegal to convert an Imax to a van by taking out the rear seats and seatbelt? I want the petrol engine, auto box and soundproofing, but with no family to transport I could dispense with the rear accomodation and use it purely for windsurfing and bunnings trips.


With the Elgrands, they come into Australia as a 'campervan' in order to meet gov requirements. They are usually 2 seaters because of this, or possibly 3 or 4 depending on who does the compliance. You then need to get an engineers certificate to certify the additional seats, which are just the manufacturers original seats and belts, to make it back into a 7 or 8 seater.

Its very easy, especially as the seats and belts are factory fitted. They effectively check that its still the case, and then redo the GVM to match the potential weight from the additional passengers. There is a weight allowance for each seating position.

I can't see how you could need an engineers certificate to take it back to a 2 seater. I expect the thing that they are concerned with is if its legally only a 2 seater and you start using the additional seats without an engineer agreeing that they meet the requirements. (Would you need to tell them to ignore the existing engineers certificate??)

From what you have posted, removing these seats in the case of the Elgrands is temporary, as the mounting points stay, but again, I don't think you would run into any problems unlike the scenario of having people sitting in seating positions that are not certified.

berowne
NSW, 1210 posts
20 Jul 2019 12:01PM
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Job Done!

Thanks for all the input, warnings, advice, counter-advice, ramblings and chatter.

I have gone with a European (against some advice), Petrol (favouring some advice), Commuter style van. After driving an Alfa previously, I struggled with the performance characteristics of the iMax I took for a "fang" . So I found myself a suite ride, Merc Viano (that's probably Spanish for Van, idk) . The V6 really appeals, except when I drive to lake George next year!?!





See you on the water!

berowne
NSW, 1210 posts
20 Jul 2019 12:36PM
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Might need an upgrade already...

FormulaNova
WA, 14049 posts
20 Jul 2019 11:03AM
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What size is the V6 in the Merc?

I agree with you, as a slow van is no fun. In the E2000 I used to have, it was so slow, but on a positive note, it made you forget all about overtaking people as generally you couldn't! I would have burnt $10 notes if I could have made it go faster.

The Elgrands are pretty fast. People sometimes complain about the economy, but you are pushing 2 tonnes around, so there has to be some penalty for that. A 3.5L V6 is not built for great economy, but the alternative in the Elgrands is a 2.5L V6 where its only slightly better on economy, but slow.

Sometimes I feel embarassed as I take off from the lights normally, at least for an Elgrand, and it looks like I am racing people. The throttle controller is partially at fault as it exagurates the throttle movements if its in the sports modes.


sailquik
VIC, 6068 posts
20 Jul 2019 8:50PM
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I did some numbers and posted this in the other van thread as well:

Petrol v's Diesel:

If the new van costs $3500 more for a diesel, that buys around 2690 litres of petrol at around $1.30/l

That is equal to 22.435km in the petrol version. this means that you will get at least 22.000 km of free km using your petrol van in comparison!

In the time you do 22,000 km in your petrol van you would still have to pay for fuel in your diesel. @ 8L / 100km you will use around 1760L of diesel. @ around $1.40/L this will cost around $2460. So now you are nearly $6000 worse off with the Diesel!

I guess it may take a lot of drivers between 1-2 years to do 22.000 km.

So if you do around 22,000Km a year you can save around $1000 a year in fuel cost. Therefore it will take at least another 6 years before you even break even on the difference in purchase cost, on the fuel saving. After that initial seven years and 154,000kms (it make take longer than 7 years if you do less KM/year), yes, you now actually save $1000 in fuel costs per year/22000km.

That's if you even still have that vehicle after it has done that 154.000km!

Bear in mind that Diesels typically cost a huge amount more to recondition or repair the engine when it gets to the end of it's life (worn out or broken). Balance that against the general longer life for many diesel engines, but it really all boils down to the fact that for most private, non commercial use owners, you may never get back the initial higher cost of buying a Diesel new.

And the pertol V6 version will go a lot quicker, quieter and smoother.

PS. I just realised that Toyota claim 8.2 and 8.4L/100 for their Diesels, so my figures are actually slightly optimistic.

New Toyota Petrol v's Diesel? No contest!

JakeNN
351 posts
20 Jul 2019 7:55PM
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Please get some window tinting on the new van!

berowne
NSW, 1210 posts
20 Jul 2019 11:18PM
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JakeNN said..
Please get some window tinting on the new van!


Good point Jake!

sailquik
VIC, 6068 posts
22 Jul 2019 6:39PM
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Which, if any of the current vans do not have a solid partition beween the load space and cabin, or at least a sliding door in the cage/partition?

olskool
QLD, 2444 posts
23 Jul 2019 6:43AM
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Berowne, id be checking the rear bumper attachment points. Look a bit suss on that video.



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"Which Van Should I Buy?" started by berowne